The Skellig Ring: Kerry’s Wildest Loop
If the Ring of Kerry is the postcard, the Skellig Ring is the secret note scribbled on the back. Tucked between Waterville and Portmagee, this 18km coastal loop is raw, rugged, and outrageously scenic—with fewer tour buses and far more drama.
Think craggy cliffs, forgotten beaches, Atlantic wind that slaps you awake, and views of the Skellig Islands that look photoshopped. But they’re not. This is Kerry, unfiltered.
Where Is It?
The Skellig Ring sits on the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry, just off the main Ring of Kerry route. It starts in Waterville, loops through Ballinskelligs, climbs Coomanaspig Pass, and drops into Portmagee—gateway to the Skellig Islands.
It’s wild, narrow, and not for nervous drivers. But if you can handle the bends and the occasional sheep traffic jam, it’s unforgettable.
What Makes It Different?
This isn’t mass tourism territory. It’s for the curious, the coastal walkers, the history buffs, and the people who packed hiking boots instead of heels.
- Skellig Michael views – The best land-based look at the island monastery made famous by Star Wars
- Coomanaspig Pass – One of Ireland’s highest roads with sweeping views of sea and sky
- Gaeltacht territory – Irish is still spoken here, especially in Ballinskelligs
- Beaches and cliffs – White Strand, Reenroe, and storm-battered headlands
- No crowds – Most tourists miss it. You won’t.
Key Stops Along the Route
Ballinskelligs
- Ballinskelligs Abbey – Atmospheric ruins on the beach with monks, myths, and sea mist
- McCarthy’s Castle – 16th-century tower keeping watch over the bay
Coomanaspig Pass
- Jaw-dropping drive – High, narrow, and not for the faint-hearted (but the views…)
Portmagee
- Colourful fishing village – Base for boat trips to the Skelligs and seafood straight off the boat
Valentia Island (optional detour)
- Tetrapod Trackway – Fossilised footprints from 385 million years ago. No big deal.
- Bray Head Walk – Coastal cliff trail with Skellig views to stop your heart (in a good way)
What to Expect
- Weather: Moody and magnificent. Expect fog, sun, drizzle, and the occasional sideways Atlantic slap.
- Roads: Tight, winding, and occasionally terrifying. But manageable with common sense and low gears.
- Mobile signal: Spotty at best. Download your maps before you leave civilization (i.e., Waterville).
- Driving: Best explored clockwise to avoid reversing into a ditch when you meet a tractor.
- Time: Allow at least half a day, more if you’re stopping to breathe it all in properly.
Did You Know?
- Skellig Michael, visible offshore, is home to a 6th-century monastic settlement and hundreds of puffins during breeding season.
- The Skellig Ring is part of the Wild Atlantic Way—but most casual visitors don’t realise it.
- Star Wars shot scenes here for The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. No lightsabers left behind, sadly.
Links & Resources
- Discover Ireland – Skellig Ring – Official guide with tips and maps
- National Parks Service – Trails and protected landscapes nearby
- The Irelander – County Kerry Profile – Dive deeper into Kerry’s heritage and hotspots
- The Irelander – Surname Finder – See if your family name links to this windswept part of the world
Final Thoughts
The Skellig Ring is for the adventurer, not the itinerary follower. It’s the kind of place you stumble into and never forget. Less polished, more powerful—and just remote enough to make it feel like you’ve earned it.
If the Ring of Kerry is a well-worn song, the Skellig Ring is the haunting B-side. Go drive it. And bring snacks.
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